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Buildings & Bridges


Bridges from blister packs by David Bell

You can make bridges from two plastic bits from blister packs and a piece of foamy stuff also from the blister packs. Simply paint the clear plastic bits to match your games table (usually green with flock) and stick the foamy stuff long ways between them.

Necromunda buildings from old computers by Scott

A source of good terrain for Necromunda is the power supply from old computers. My old 386 was lying around, the motherboard and other bits long since scavenged when I decided to break open the rather nondescript metal box in the corner of it. Lo and behold a veritable treasure trove (archeotech hoard?). Took a bit of cracking open (mine was all spot welded shut) but well worth the effort.

Contents:

  • My favorite - a seven bladed fan in a square case, a little larger than a bulkhead. Free standing, but I made it a cardboard frame exactly the same height as a bulkhead, which required angling it at about 45 degrees. Nice looking, versatile piece of terrain.

  • Assorted circuit boards with nice big capacitors, resistors and stuff (including one with the legend "Heat sink - risk of shock".

  • Pre labeled even!

  • Tonnes of wiring, aluminum cooling fins, other bits and pieces.

  • The box itself. Very robust, slots cut all around it. Perfect for a bunker or in my case a fortified gang hut.

Epic buildings by Aaron

I love this tip from Aaron. You know all those things you buy that come on a card with a plastic blister covering (not just the Games Workshop miniatures - all those other things too like batteries, small toys and so on)? Well, Aaron has a special use for them:

Just thought I'd drop a tip for Epic buildings.

You know those packages that have a card backing and a clear front, just like GW blister packs? Well, you'd be quite surprised, well, maybe not you, at what shapes you can get. Stuff like battery packs for portable stereos (the large ones), and other different mould shapes.

When the card is cleaned away and the plastic is filled with plaster, set, and removed, you end up with good Epic buildings. Although you may need some type of lubricant if you want to be able to use the mould again and again.

Even the Epic Blisters themselves turn out good barracks or storehouse type buildings. With a bit of hunting and rummaging, you can find all sorts of mould shapes, like small children's toys, for instance.

I am in the process of making some myself. I'll send you some scanned photos when they are done (and when I am happy with the look of them Smile ), as well as a more detailed description on the way that I made them.

OK Aaron, Let's see them!

Buildings from Plastic Cases by Owen Cooper

I make ruined Necromunda building sections (corners, free-standing walls etc.) from smashed up CD and cassette cases which being plastic break in completely different shapes to crumbled polystyrene or foamcard.

It looks good as it suggests that the original building was formed from plastic or fibreglass and has shattered when hit by artillery or similar. Smaller pieces of shattered hard plastic on the bases help to give this impression. They are also very sturdy if you use thick plastic and polystyrene cement.

I also stick little advertising/propaganda posters (pictures from magazines) into the wet grey paint (on the plastic ruins) and then when dry drybrush the grey back over them. This blends the 'posters' in and makes them look faded and torn.

Coffee Can Barracks by Quin Woeppel

For Quonset hut type barracks: take a mid-size coffee can (not the full huge ones) and cut in half top to bottom. (this can be a bit fiddely but a good pair of tin snips and You're Off!!)

After you have the can halved down it's middle you place the opened end on a sheet of foamcore and trace the inside half circle. This will be where you place the door and windows. After you cut the half circle out of the foamcore then mark in the door and windows and cut them as well. You have a prefab barracks or vehicle depot (if you just HAD to use the big cans) additional windows can either be faked by gluing on window frames or you can go to the trouble of making gables... sigh... ok for gables... you cut several matching pairs of gable sides... these will start out rectangular. Then set the open can edge on one of the rectangles. The can must go from one corner diagonally across the rectangle to the opposite corner. This will leave you with a small piece of corner with a half moon sort of shape. If your angles are correct then this should be able to set against the outside of the can with the long edge at 90 degrees to the base and the rounded edge flush with the can. Now measure all of your remaining Gable sides to the template gable and cut them out.

To make the gable front just measure the height of the front of the gable edge and make a square or rectangular piece to fit between two gables. Cut your window or door into this front piece and viola. ahh a bit of roof for this sticky-out bit would be good.... I use a piece of 1 sided corrugated cardboard (with the wavy stuff on only one side) and cut a piece just a little bit larger than the opening at the top. Then I glue the flat side down and paint the entire Quonset hut black with silver dry-brush. Add ink for rust and aerials for antennae as well as the assorted barrels and so on... Finished product. Three or four of these should be a nifty bivouac for any force.

Strawberry Basket Bunkers by AC Chrisjohn

There's a quick and easy way of making bunkers/huts in wartime (and when isn't it wartime in the 41st Millennium!) This fall, I happened to look in the supermarkets, all those fresh strawberries, yummy, so red, and wait a minute. Look at those green cage-basket things! those would be stonking for bunkers!

  1. Buy Strawberries in green cage and eat them!

  2. Take the cage (all clean) and a roll of masking tape

  3. Take strips of tape, and place them on the cage so they look like wall sections, remember to leave a line of bare cage at eye level to the mini, and continue to cover the cage until satisfied. Also, a door would help, just snip a small section from the cage for a doorway.

  4. Do the standard textured paint (half water, half PVA glue, and mix in some sand) and brush liberally on all taped parts.

  5. Paint in suitably dirty browns and greys, dry brushing looks neat as well. Make sure the exposed parts of the cage are painted a rusty silver or clean silver.

And presto! healthy, fruity, and altogether easy bunkers! the ones in Canada can fit 6-8 models, ideal for heavy weapons!

note: so easy, I picked up a whole crateful, just ask the store workers round the corner in your local grocer, made 10 bunkers in a night once!

Incinerated buildings by Erik Wallingford

Even though Gary says to be careful when spraying polystyrene, I go nuts with it. Build up ruins out of regular polystyrene, not foamcore, and put them together, then spray them dark gray or white. The walls and floor will look corroded and melted. I, being a big user of models with energy weapons (lasers, plasma, and melta) have many uses for this, as I imagine it as melted Permacrete. Or, you can paint the runny, oozy sections greens, purples, and black and make it look like a Tyranid nest. I have one with strange cocoon material around and the phrase "THE END IS NEAR" painted on one of the walls .

McBuildings McCheap by James Thomson

I have a really easy and cheap building. You'll need one empty can of spray paint, the plastic lid off a Mc Donald's Mc flurry, two floppy disks, some corrugated cardboard, a dowel (at least 2 and a half feet depending on the height of your platform), some finishing nails or a long piece of metal, some round tooth picks, various computer terminal electronic bits and pieces for detailing and a glue gun.

Take the lid off the spray can and throw it in your bit box (like you do with every thing), glue the end of the spray can that has the nozzle on it to the mc flurry lid using pva glue, this is the only part that the hot glue will melt. Glue three floppies together so you get them forming a crescent and so that they can be glued to the spray can. put one floppy on the top of the can so you have a platform there (it's good o put the side with the hole there so you can add some toxic waste in the shallow area of the spray can). then glue you floppies to the can at the desired height. Cut the dowel into equal sized pieces and glue to the underside of the floppies. Glue the nails together to make the two sides of the ladder and place it so that it goes close to the three floppies and ends up at the top one. Cut up the tooth picks into equal pieces to make the ladders rungs. then take the cardboard and strip away the top layer so only the corrugated part is showing. cut enough of this to make a short wall around all the floppies. add a few decals and details and your done!

"MELT-DOWN" Ruins by Caitlin

Using polystyrene, but NOT brushing it with PVA glue, I constructed a large ruined building. Then I decided to paint it with a black spray...

Of course my nice, large building started more or less melting! (I did not know it would, so I was a bit surprised) But the semi melted ruin actually became one of my best buildings, because I then used the spray to create holes and curves easily and more or less natural looking.

After that, all I needed was to dry brush the thing and it was ready to use.


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