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Mordheim Ruins - Part 2

by Gary James

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In part 1 I described the construction techniques for

Mordheim buildings. This page discusses finishing and detailing.</td>



**<font size="2">Step 1 : prepare the 'timber' details for



If you paint the wall and corner timbers as they are they will look

alright, but they definitely look better and more authentic if they

are roughened and carved up a bit:<br />

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<td width="61%">Take a sharp craft knife and carve up the balsa

wood timbers so that they are not so uniform. Do this for the

wall timbers as well as any support timbers such as those shown

here. You can also exaggerate the grain in the balsa wood by

scratching the sharp tip of the craft knife along the grain to

make deeper grooves.</td>

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<font size="2">Step 2 : Texture the walls</font>


The foamcore surface is too smooth to be able to get any texture to

it when painting, so it is best to roughen it with fine sand in PVA

glue or textured wall covering.

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<td width="55%">I used white textured wall covering. It comes in

tubs and is a sticky - almost a paste - and has a rough sandy

texture. Apply it with a cheap child's paintbrush. Don't worry

about getting a bit on the floor, and on the outside of the

building put it on thickly around the base of the walls to fill

any gaps. Cover the whole of the base with it too.

The quickest way to work is to paint it on quickly and wipe

it off the balsawood parts with a damp cloth. </td>



<font size="2">Step 3 : Undercoat</font>


Spray everything black. It will be difficult to get the spray

inside the buildings unless they are very open, and you may need to

use some thin black paint on a brush to fill in any gaps. Be sure that

the wall covering is completely dry before painting - this can take 24

hours on areas where you have applied it thickly.

<font size="2">Step 4 : Paint the wall panels grey</font>


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<td width="50%">The wall panels are painted up from black to light

grey. I use dry a brushing technique and three shades - a dark

grey just short of black, a mid 'battleship' grey and a light

grey. Then I finish off with a very light dry brush of pale grey

or even white, just to pick up the texture. With each shade of

grey I stop shorter and shorter of the timber, which gives a

shaded effect. Leave some black showing right next to the timber

to accentuate the relief - this will happen naturally because

your brush doesn't go into the joins between the timber and the

walls. Don't worry too much about getting grey on the timbers

because you'll paint them next. </td>

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<br />

**<font size="2">Step 5 : Paint the timbers, windows, floors and



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<td width="66%">Begin by painting all of the wooden parts and

floors brown (I use Bestial Brown). Just paint it straight on,

thinned a little if it makes it easier. When it is dry dry-brush

with a very light brown, with a very dry brush and very little

paint. Overdo it and you'll paint the wood light brown and have

to start again. Get some light brown on a big stiff brush (I use

a fat cheap child's paint brush about 8mm in diameter), brush

vigorously on newspaper until most of the paint has come off the

brush and what is left is fairly dry, and then dry-brush your

wooden details. As you can see in this picture the carved effect

comes out very nicely if you get the brush dry enough so it just

picks up the edges. The wall panels shading to black can also be

seen in this photograph.</td>



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<td width="54%">The floors are painted in the same way. When

dry-brushing work across the floorboards so that you

leave the black in the cracks to accentuate the texture. Since I

used wood for the floors creating broken floorboards was easy...</td>

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<td width="67%">Where the building has a roof I paint the roof

timbers as described, but paint the tiles red. Really the

cardboard tiles look more like slate than red pantile, but grey

roofs look a bit dull when the rest of the building is grey too.

So I use a dark red (Scab red or Red Gore works well). I use the

same fat brush and brush upwards to leave some black around the

edges of the tiles to accentuate their texture. For toughness I

actually sealed the roof tiles with PVA and let it dry before

painting. If your buildings are for club use you might want to

do the same.</td>



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<td width="50%">The stonework for the arches was painted in

exactly the same way. Because of their polystyrene (styrofoam)

construction I gave the arches a thorough coating with PVA glue

after sticking on the cardboard 'stones' and before coating with

the textured paint.</td>

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